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Users browsing this forum: Extrems, Google [Bot]rama and 9 guests. It is currently Mon Dec 31, 1: Mon Dec 31, 1: Thu Jan 14, 2: All systems are looking great and performing as expected. Now I can do a simple writeup and maybe allow others to try something similar for themselves. Thu Jan 14, 3: Thu Jan 14, 4: Yeah, for fun, do a 75 ohm termination with.

It looks like pin 25 is used to blank for those particular inputs. Yeah, cx2a154as 10uF cap was probably too big, hence why it took longer for the voltage to load up to affect brightness. That’s typically why you have a 2nd set of RGB inputs on the Jungle.

How much voltage are you feeding into the blanking? The final configuration is this: The blanking pin pin 29 is being given 5V when RGB is active. Thu Jan 14, 5: Thu Jan 14, 6: Not hard, just the issues that various other configurations gave were a bit misleading to me Got the focus really nice in the center of the tube: Thu Jan 14, 7: Fri Jan 15, 1: I’m itching to try it out myself.

I’m curious if this model in the thread KVS42 is what people would call the best consumer curved Trinitron? I know the KV-xxFV is the best flat model available- did you guys just have this model on hand or did you seek it out?

Also, where did you both go to find datasheets for your Jungle chips? I’ve got a CXAAS and some sites are saying the is “equivalent” but I don’t know how accurate that statement is. Any general guidelines to know if it even has a chance of RGB being added? Fri Jan 15, 2: Oh crap, are you guys doing these to Trinitron’s that were pre-component video?

As in the best they had was S-video? I may consider trying this in that case, since I’m not really a fan of how most component-capable Trinitrons were flat maybe all. I’d really like a curved tube that can do something beyond s-video.

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Found my jungle ic. I datasheeet a bit unsure what pin im supposed to feed 5v to to turn the rgb lines on. Im assuming its the cxxa2154as pins 25, 26, 27 for YUV in that get switched to rgb since it looks like i only have 1 set of input on the chip.

I see where it says comb on this diagram. I think your right bobrocks. Ill have to look at that again. I dont see any other chips on the diagrams with lots of things hooked up to them like this one. Fri Jan 15, 5: I just want to say something, and in no way do I mean to be a dick. If you don’t have experience or knowledge in servicing HV equipment. You probably need to just step away and do some thorough research.

CXAAS Datasheet, PDF – Datasheet Search Engine

This isn’t something you want to play with and “get wrong”. You can get seriously, seriously hurt here. I helped mikejmoffitt because he knows how a CRT by principle works. I wouldn’t have felt guilty had he shocked his nuts off into the next plane of ccxa2154as. Fri Jan 15, 4: I know this sounds dumb but some tubes you have to not only break the epoxy like substance to move the rings but you may also have to undo a clamp somewhere on the neck.

I can’t remember the model but one of the older PVM’s I used to have required I undo the screw clamp on the neck before I could adjust the rings. As for stealing sync, at least on this set I recommend using S-video’s luma line, because that has a different H offset that is exactly what is needed, without any fucking around. Composite was shifted to the left to account for time needed for the comb filter and more importantly composite video decoding.

Fri Jan 15, 8: It’s really awesome how quash never gets tired of hammering the same stupid shit over and over and you guys don’t suspect for second that he’s actually paid for this. Sat Jan 16, 6: I have a high voltage probe and i know how to discharge a crt with it. Sat Jan 16, 9: Sat Jan 16, Sun Jan 17, 4: Sun Jan 17, 5: Why do chips matter?

Can’t you just hook the RGB wires straight to the electron guns? Sun Jan 17, 7: I don’t know if you’re being sarcastic or not but the chip is a fairly complex pre-amp that, looking at the block diagram for mine, mixes in settings contrast, sharpness, brightness, etc. I have little experience with block diagrams so I might be wrong, but it’s a pin package on my TV and is probably doing more than you might be assuming. Mon Jan 18, Mon Jan 18, 1: Mon Jan 18, 2: Yeah, well that’s only when everything’s relative like on an NTSC signal.

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Mon Jan 18, 4: Page 2 of Previous topic Next topic. Much appreciated in all your effort!!! Did you do this? Now, was that so hard? Sure that isn’t a comb filter or something? It’s part number isn’t close to any other Jungle ICs either. Those aren’t RGB inputs. Two totally different standards, as well as video signals. My suggestion is to grab the service manual for each set and review both of their capabilities.

You’d have to drive the guns directly on that set, and I’m not going to go back and forth on an AC coupled video circuit.

The 27FS however, is a winner. Just use the information that I gave in the thread. Pins 41, 42, and 43 are your RGB inputs. Take them out of circuit, and tie 75 ohm resistors to ground to match impedence for the 75 ohm load, and add a. Pin 40 is blanking. Tie pin 40 high to a low voltage source 3v-5v when you want to enable the RGB input.

And even though I roll my owns cables, I like standards. Of course, you can use whatever you want. Do your 75ohm to ground terminations as well as your.

CXA2154AS Distributor

Hijack stereo audio and sync from a set of composite inputs. I’ve touched on this in passing on various threads when people ask me about doing this. It starts in the service manual. Look up the service manual for the set you’d want to do and review the block diagram, schematics, and chips employed. Yep, this one only had S-video. The beautiful cylindrical-shaped tube sort. I mounted my ports like this: The magnetic rings on the neck are more or less stuck in place.

I managed to free a few, but they don’t want to rotate far, and I do not wish to force them in case they break which I have dealt with before.